Known for its cute cuddliness, the Maltese is a favorite among dog owners worldwide. Categorized as a toy breed, these dogs have been recognized by the American Kennel Club for over a hundred years. Characterized by its long white hair and friendly demeanor, the Maltese has captured the heart of millions.

As the proud owner of a Maltese, it is not an uncommon requirement that you groom your little one. To do this, some diligence may be necessary along with a few tools. Here we will discuss the different areas in need of grooming on the Maltese and the equipment you will need to do the job well.

MAINTAINING A SLEEK AND HEALTHY COAT

Whether you have chosen to keep your Maltese’s luxurious locks or cropped them for a shorter do; keeping his or her hair mat free is the key to a beautiful dog.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Pin Brush
• Grooming Detangler or Coat Oil
• Comb
• Sharp Scissors

STEP BY STEP:

1. To begin, have your Maltese lay flat on his side or back; whichever you prefer.
2. Begin by brushing the underside of your Maltese with the pin brush. The underside will be most likely to mat, as well as the hair ends.
3. While brushing through, use your comb to divide hair sections so that all areas are fully brushed.
4. If you encounter a mat, simply saturate with detangler and begin to work through it with your finger. Coat oil may be needed for more stubborn mats. It may also be necessary to cut the mat out with scissors if other attempts fail.
5. Once thoroughly brushed and conditioned, you may trim unsightly ends or add definition to the coat with your scissors.

KEEPING YOUR MALTESE CLEAN

Bathing your Maltese dog is a crucial component to responsible pet care. Keeping him or her clean helps to reduce odor and keep your dog’s skin healthy. Bathing for your Maltese should occur at least every 10 days.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Dog Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Towel
• Cup or Spray Nozzle

STEP BY STEP:

1. Gather your supplies and pre-fill your bathing tub. Water should be warm to the touch, but not hot.
2. Avoiding water in the ears and face, use your cup or spray nozzle to completely wet your Maltese’s fur.
3. Once saturated, shampoo and condition as you would your own hair. Be sure to cleanse all the nooks and crannies of your dog including the unsightly parts.
4. Rinse thoroughly and wrap with a towel. If you plan on taking your Maltese out after a bath, be sure that he or she is completely dry before leaving the house. Many suggest that longer haired Maltese’s should be a blow dried to help prevent matting. This is an optional procedure.

MANAGING A MALTESE’S NAILS

Taking care of your Maltese’s nails may seem like an intimidating task, but with a little guidance; you’re sure to have great success.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Dog Nail Clippers
• Nail File

STEP BY STEP:

1. After bathing your Maltese, set them in your lap and firmly hold the desired paw in one hand. If your Maltese refuses to stay still, you may want to turn him or her on their side and lay some of your body weight on them to steady the paw.
2. Determine where to clip by looking for the end to your dog’s quick. This is usually visible as a change of color towards the end of a dog’s nail.
3. Place your clippers at a 90 degree angle on the nail you want to trim.
4. Squeeze firmly and discard nail clipping.
5. Use your nail file to smooth the nail surface and remove any snags.

Dog accessories can range from basic need to expensive frivolity. Common sense items such as bedding, carriers and food dishes are accessory fundamentals, while diamond studded collars and designer outfits are all the rage for well to do doggies.

Whether looking for accessories to pamper your pooch or simply to make life with them more manageable; here are three of the top contenders in dog accessories categorized for budget and style:

COLLARS: A FASHION STATEMENT FOR EVERYDAY

INSANE GLAMOR: If your canine companion deserves all that money can buy, this collar marks the ultimate in accessory excess. Created by I Love Dogs Diamonds, the Amour Amour 18K white gold, platinum, and diamond collar carries an obscene price tag of $3,200,000!

WHITE COLLAR SPLENDOR: For those with discriminating taste but less of a gold mine, the Studio 54 Swarovski collar is made of lightweight nylon and assorted colors of Swarovski crystals. This collar is designed with making your pampered pup shine and costs around $50.00.

BUDGET BLING: Affordable and stylish, the Omni Pet Deer Skin collar is perfect for any dog. Heavy duty stitching and hand finished craftsmanship makes this a great accessory buy for around $10.00.

BEDDING: WHERE SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE

INDULGENT SLUMBER: When a dog lays his or her head to rest on a Chien Vivant Couture bed, blissful reverie is sure to transpire. Ranging in the $1,000’s, these luxury beds are made of the highest quality materials of faux leather, brass studs, and Swarovski crystals.

INTERIOR MOTIFS: For the well-to-do doggy that needs beauty rest and a lot of comfort, but has a limited budget, there is the Reversible Lazy Dog from Bowsers. Costing $80.00 to $200.00, this cozy bed flips inside out and makes it excellent for a perfect dognap.

THRIFTY SNOOZE: Getting a great bed at a reasonable price isn’t difficult. Wag Bag produces first-rate dog beds that start around $10.00 in a variety of shapes and colors. Most contain hypo-allergenic filling to ensure safe sleeping.

CLOTHING: MAKE THEM THE ENVY OF THE PACK

HIGH SOCIETY STYLE: Let your dog be the talk of the town in designer fashions custom made by artists like Emma Rose, Paris Hilton, and many others. These outfits are outrageously awesome and include many must have articles. Prices for haute couture by the piece range anywhere from $30.00 and up.

SUBURBAN PANACHE: Trendy sportswear and casual apparel like hooded sweatshirts and sundresses for the middle income pets are available from makers like Baxter and Boo. Boasting adorable screen print tees, tanks, and sweatshirts that match their owners, the average cost per item ranges from $20.00 to $30.00.

MINIMALISTIC ATTIRE: Adorning your precious pooch in fabulous garments doesn’t have to be expensive. Stores such as Wal-Mart and Target carry good quality fashion pieces at low prices. Clearance racks may offer dog clothing starting under $1.00.

Good nutrition for your Maltese dog is important for overall health and beauty. Essential nutrients are required by your little pooch to maintain a healthy coat and teeth; stay active; and live longer.

FEEDING A MALTESE PUPPY

When purchasing your new puppy, it is often from a reputable supplier. Full bred dogs generally come with a detailed lineage, documentation, and instructions. It is likely that your Maltese is already weaned from mother’s milk, and your breeder has introduced solid foods.

Most breeders will specify which foods and how often the puppy has been fed. In this case, it is wise to continue the dietary plan until your Maltese reaches the age of three months. At this time, some alteration can be made to ensure your growing puppy’s further development.

If the breeder has given no instruction, or you have acquired the puppy through other means; foods that are appropriate for young Maltese’s should include the following ingredients:

• Meat proteins to maintain your puppy’s vitality and vigor.
• Fatty acids to promote healthy skin and liver function.
• Vitamins and Minerals for excellent bone growth and healthy body function.

FEEDING YOUR MALTESE DOG

As your Maltese grows, so do his or her needs. Nutritional values change after 3 months, so it is important to understand how much and what foods are required by your dog to maintain a healthy lifestyle.

• Dry dog foods are the most convenient and affordable way to guarantee your Maltese is receiving its daily intake of nutrients. Packed with all the essential elements your dog needs, these foods are scientifically proven for taste and nutritional value.
• Canned dog foods specifically designed for small, indoor dogs are available at most retail stores and come in a wide variety of flavors. These are slightly higher in cost and less convenient than dry foods, but tend to be more appetizing for many dogs.
• Frozen or fresh dog foods are less commonly used. These foods are made of high quality meat and are packaged into rolls similar to that of hamburger packaging. While the most natural and nutritional forms of dog food, these foods are higher priced and must usually be purchased online.

Regardless of form, only foods specifically designed for small, indoor canines should be served to your Maltese. Most manufacturers clearly note on all packaging which dogs will benefit from their product and include a list of key ingredients found within each blend.

An important note: When introducing new foods to your Maltese, be sure to watch for any signs of food allergies. While not completely common, food allergies can present themselves at any time and if unaddressed; can cause serious harm or death to your pet. Implications of an allergy may be displayed through vomiting, hair loss, or diarrhea.

WHAT ARE SOME COMMON REASONS A DOG MAY BARK?

Dogs may bark for a plethora of reasons, but studies show there are several common causes that stimulate canine utterances. Barking is generally necessitated by a dog’s need or desire and can be categorized as follows:
DISTRESS OR APPREHENSION
Many dogs will bark repeatedly during situations in which they feel uneasy or frightened. The appearance of strangers or a possible injury may provoke uncontrollable barking.
PLAYFUL BARKING
At times of excitement or joy, a dog may express barking as a way of showing he or she is having a good time.
BARKING AT OTHER DOGS
There are times when it seems that one dog’s bark can be heard around the world. In a strange phenomenon, it is not uncommon that when one dog barks, a procession of barking can be heard circulating the neighborhood.
EMOTIONAL BARKING
When a dog feels lonely or stressed, they may use barking as a means of conveying to humans and other dogs that they are feeling upset.
Barking for the above mentioned reasons is completely natural for a dog. In normal conditions, most dogs will discontinue barking once the situation or circumstance has changed. With deviant barking behaviors, there seems to be no apparent stimuli for prolonged barking.
MY DOG WON’T STOP BARKING!
As a pet owner who struggles with a persistent barker, there are treatments which can deter or prevent the problem. While the humaneness of some remedies can be questioned, there is little doubt to their effectiveness.
CITRUS SPRAY
Modern science has found a way to safely interrupt excessive barking through the use of citrus. As dogs have an apparent dislike for the smell of citrus, special collars have been equipped to mist a dogs muzzle when it begins to bark. This has been proven fairly effective and causes no pain.
SHOCK COLLARS
A highly debatable method of deterrence for excessive barking is the use of shock collars. These neck bands use sudden jolts of electricity to modify negative behaviors in dogs. Usually controlled by the pet owner, with the push of a button an electric shock is administered to the dog’s neck.
DEBARKING SURGERY
This surgery is highly controversial as some feel that by removing a dog’s bark completely, it renders the dog almost incapable of communication. This in turn is believed to be a possible safety concern as well as an animal rights concern. In the procedure, tissues around the dog’s larynx are removed to prevent barking. Many feel that this method is pointless and cruel since the dogs bark often returns after a few months.
While these methods of modification may be a last resort, most pet owners will find that the best course of action is simply consistent training. Using reward and distraction may be all that is needed to end the eternal yap.

CAUSES OF SEIZURES

Another common misconception of seizures is that they are always brought on by the condition of Epilepsy. While this is the most frequent cause, is only associated with multiple onsets of seizure episodes. There are situations in which a dog may exhibit seizures occasionally or even just one time. In these cases, cause for a seizure may be from one of the following:

HEAD INJURY: It is not unusual for a dog to suffer from seizures after head trauma. These seizures may be only once, or become recurring.

VIRAL INFECTION: Many times, a dog who has distemper or meningitis may suffer from seizures as a result of swelling and inflammation within the nervous system and in the brain. High fevers have also been known to cause seizures.

CONGENITAL DEFECT OR BRAIN ABNORMALITIES: Defective conditions such as Hydrocephalus and brain tumors can cause seizure.

POISONING: Foods and chemicals that can be toxic in dogs such as chocolate and onions, certain plants, and household chemicals can induce seizures and possibly death.

If your dog experiences seizures, a trip to the veterinarian’s office will help to determine the cause. Your vet will run a series of tests that generally include a CT scan, blood screen, MRI, and possible spinal tap to establish the root origins for the seizure.

SIGNS OF SEIZURE

While there are varying types and degrees of seizure, all seizures result in the loss of consciousness. Below are some warning signs and symptoms that a dog might display before and during an episode of seizures.

The Aura Phase: Often a precursor to seizure onset, dogs may display symptoms such as:

• Hiding
• Restlessness
• Whining
• Pacing

The Ictus Phase: During this phase, seizure is taking place and behaviors may include:

• A heightened state of excitement
• Vomiting
• Unconsciousness
• Spastic muscle movements
• Unresponsive dilated pupils
• Pooping or peeing
• Paddling of legs
• Smacking of lips

Post-Ictus Phase: This period constitutes the recuperation phase of a seizure and can last for some time. Post seizure mannerisms may include:

• Appearance of confusion
• Temporary blindness
• Extreme lethargy
• May become exceptionally hungry

When witness to your dogs seizure, it is a natural and loving response to want to help him or her. In the case of seizures, however; it is best to let the seizures natural course take effect. You may aid your dog by keeping your composure, moving any hazards out of the way, and through monitoring the situation. It is important to note that unlike human seizures, it is not wise to attempt to place anything inside of your dog’s mouth during a seizure as this may result in injury to you.

If this is your dog’s first seizure, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible so that he or she may assist you in determining the best course of action in preventing and treating any further episodes.

Esophageal Problems

Throat difficulties in a dog are not uncommon and stem from numerous conditions:

• BLOCKAGES: Since canines will eat almost anything, it is reasonable to assume that some objects may present a choking hazard. In this case, a dog’s body will react in a manner that attempts to dislodge the foreign article; producing vomit.
• VASCULAR RING ANOMALIES: This is a frequent and persistent circumstance for dogs in which the blood vessels of the esophagus constrict and cause blockage.
• MEGAESOPHAGUS: This condition occurs when poor muscle tone in the animals throat don’t constrict as much as they should. In turn, food that should be moved to the stomach finds its way back up the esophagus.
• HAITAL HERNIAS: Tears or ruptures in a dog’s diaphragm cause a portion of its stomach to push into the thorax. This is a commonly known cause for acid reflux in humans as well.
• FOOD ALLERGIES: Like humans, dogs may develop food allergies that can cause swelling of the esophagus and vomiting.

Exterior Stimuli

Much of a dogs vomiting can be triggered by outside sources. Frequent causes may include:

• Ingesting substances that may contain harmful chemicals
• Consuming household food scraps
• Situations that induce fear or tension for the dog
• Common illnesses caused from viral infections

Many of these conditions may be treated by a veterinarian or by home remedy, but it is imperative that a dog owner make an informed decision when attempting to treat from home. Some signs that a dog may be suffering from more sinister conditions are listed below.

• Check your dog’s gums. Pale gums may be a sign of poisoning or a lack of oxygen.
• Is there blood in the vomit? If so, he or she may be enduring stomach or esophageal ulcers.
• Make sure your dog is getting enough water. Dehydration can lead to death if left untreated.
• Determine how long and how much your dog has been vomiting. Projectile vomiting is not normal and your dog should show signs of improvement within 24 hours of being sick.

If no pressing concerns are apparent, then a pet owner may begin to take the necessary steps to remedy their dog at home. Here are a few suggestions that will help to eliminate or reduce the number of vomiting incidences your dog may have.

• With a vet’s approval, common over the counter medicines such as Pepto Bismol can help.
• Maple syrup can act as a good reducer for vomit.
• Limit your dog’s food portions.
• Give your dog soups, electrolyte enhanced liquids or broth to regulate dehydration.

Remember, if your dog’s condition does not improve or worsens, you should seek the attention of a veterinarian.

Whether it’s a new puppy or an old hound, training can become a tedious chore if done incorrectly. Many wives tales have foretold of the impossibilities for teaching older dogs new tricks, while horror stories abound of little pups gone awry. Luckily, it’s not necessary to resign yourself to a pooch that refuses to obey. Here are a few tips to help train your dog, young or old:

PUPPY TRAINING

The first rule to remember when bringing home a new puppy is that they are tiny little balls of endless energy that have little concept of what is appropriate and what isn’t. In this fact, caring for your new addition is similar to caring for a small, mobile child. They may not learn right away, but with love, patience and consistency, your new puppy will be trained in a matter of days.

PREPARE YOUR HOME by putting away any expensive or heirloom items that you would not want damaged. Items such as antique vases and imported rugs often act as a magnet for little canines that like to run and are not yet potty trained. Bear in mind that stowing these accessories is only temporary and that when your little dog is more docile, you may put the items back in their rightful places.

START CRATE TRAINING as soon as possible. Giving your puppy a safe place to stay while you’re away or asleep also helps in potty training. To make using the crate easier, here is what to do:

• Keep puppy food inside the crate. This will help your little one be less intimidated by the idea of being contained.
• Stay close by. This helps to assure your puppy that he or she will not be confined forever. If the puppies whining or fussing become too much of an annoyance to you, simply walk away for a few minutes, then return.
• Once puppy has adapted to its new container, you may then open the crate door and let them out. DO NOT let the puppy out if he or she is whining to get out. This only teaches the dog that throwing a fit will encourage release from the cage.
• Make sure to have your puppy go potty outside before putting him or her into the crate. This will help to eliminate the occurrence of accidents inside the crate and marks a good beginning to potty training.

POTTY, POTTY, POTTY! While potty training is the bane of new pet owners everywhere, there are ways to make the experience go a little smoother.

• In the initial stages of potty training, it is vital that a schedule be instituted for optimal success. A puppy should generally be taken out at least every two hours and subsequent to eating or sleeping.
• Take the puppy to the same pre-determined location every time he or she goes to the bathroom.
• When taking puppy out to potty, be sure to use explaining words such as “GO POTTY” to help your puppy identify what it is that he or she is doing.
• Each time your puppy does well in the potty training; always reward their behavior right away. Giving them a treat or words of praise will encourage further progress.

TEACHING PUPPY BASIC COMMANDS such as sit, come, or stay are obedience commands and should begin right away.

• Use short words and a solid tone.
• Be consistent in your requests and command frequently while your puppy is learning.
• Keep training session times limited to around 15 to 30 minutes each.
• Always reward your puppy when he or she does what was expected of them.

DOG TRAINING

Adult dog training is very similar to that of puppy training and is an important aspect of being a responsible dog owner. Proper training helps ensure the safety of those around your dog and promotes good relations between you and your dog. Here are some helpful hints in the training arena.

• To teach old dogs new tricks, you must first impress upon them the idea that you are the leader of the pack. Since canines are territorial and inherently pack driven, most adult dogs must feel that you are the alpha dog, or the dog that they must follow. To do this, speak in a firm tone, stand at full posture, and give the dog any command which he or she may understand.
• If your dog does not obey, do not hit or yell at them. This will only prove destructive and counterproductive to your efforts. Instead, end the training time and start again a little while later. If the dog then complies with the given command, always reward him or her.
• Always be consistent. Do not let a bad behavior slide one time and then discipline for it another. Use the same word for the same command each time as well.

Training your canine may seem like a daunting chore, but consistency and patience will be your best ally.

Many times when company arrives, our puppy will be all jumpy and anxious because of the strangers. Even though most of the time is a sweet gesture, there are persons who will not appreciate it and see it as such. That’s why teaching our puppy to be calm and quiet when you’e having company over is important. Try with treats and with lots of compliment words.
We are responsible of teaching our pet how to behave, but still enjoying them like the friends and loyal companion they are.

Just like happens when we are too self-indulgent, giving our dog too many treats can be harmful to their health.

But besides the treats, we commit another mistake. Most of us cannot deny that we do not read the food-labels, which is something important, because those labels indicate the amount of food our dog needs.

It is true that when we neuter our pets the physical activity is diminished, that’s why it’s important that if we continue giving the same amount of food we gave before neutering, our dog will gain weight because of the lack of exercise.

How to tell if your dog is a bit heavy? Easy. When looking our dog’s back, we should be able to notice a waist below the ribs, sort of hour-glass shaped. If the opposite happens and all we see is a squared back and not a hint of a waist whatsoever, the diagnosis is one: overweight.

When choosing the right food, the size and age of our dog must be considered. Usually, 100 gr. of dry food or 315-390 Kcal every day should satisfy our dog’s needs.

The Food:

• Meat, can be chicken, bovine, lamb or others (although is not highly recommended). This can be raw or cooked, although pork meat should always be cooked.
• Liver, guts, entrails. It’s a great food, especially for puppies and growing dogs. It should always be cooked.
• Fish is good for growing dogs; it should also be prepared before giving it to our pet.
• Eggs are given to puppies, breeding dogs, and during breastfeeding.
• Milk, just when puppies.
• Is recommendable that all animal by-products to be previously cooked or boiled. The same goes for rice and pastas.
• Veggies and fruits. If you haven’t tried it before, you’ll be surprised to see how much dogs love it. Try with apples, pears, celery, avocado, watermelon (in summer, very refreshing), etc.
• There is a wide variety of prepared food nowadays. Most of them have all the needed, making of it a more convenient and easier way to feed our pet.
• DO NOT forget: Fresh Water. Water is the most important thing for living beings. There should be fresh water at all times. Remember to change the water a few times during the day, to maintain the freshness.