Known for its cute cuddliness, the Maltese is a favorite among dog owners worldwide. Categorized as a toy breed, these dogs have been recognized by the American Kennel Club for over a hundred years. Characterized by its long white hair and friendly demeanor, the Maltese has captured the heart of millions.

As the proud owner of a Maltese, it is not an uncommon requirement that you groom your little one. To do this, some diligence may be necessary along with a few tools. Here we will discuss the different areas in need of grooming on the Maltese and the equipment you will need to do the job well.

MAINTAINING A SLEEK AND HEALTHY COAT

Whether you have chosen to keep your Maltese’s luxurious locks or cropped them for a shorter do; keeping his or her hair mat free is the key to a beautiful dog.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Pin Brush
• Grooming Detangler or Coat Oil
• Comb
• Sharp Scissors

STEP BY STEP:

1. To begin, have your Maltese lay flat on his side or back; whichever you prefer.
2. Begin by brushing the underside of your Maltese with the pin brush. The underside will be most likely to mat, as well as the hair ends.
3. While brushing through, use your comb to divide hair sections so that all areas are fully brushed.
4. If you encounter a mat, simply saturate with detangler and begin to work through it with your finger. Coat oil may be needed for more stubborn mats. It may also be necessary to cut the mat out with scissors if other attempts fail.
5. Once thoroughly brushed and conditioned, you may trim unsightly ends or add definition to the coat with your scissors.

KEEPING YOUR MALTESE CLEAN

Bathing your Maltese dog is a crucial component to responsible pet care. Keeping him or her clean helps to reduce odor and keep your dog’s skin healthy. Bathing for your Maltese should occur at least every 10 days.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Dog Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Towel
• Cup or Spray Nozzle

STEP BY STEP:

1. Gather your supplies and pre-fill your bathing tub. Water should be warm to the touch, but not hot.
2. Avoiding water in the ears and face, use your cup or spray nozzle to completely wet your Maltese’s fur.
3. Once saturated, shampoo and condition as you would your own hair. Be sure to cleanse all the nooks and crannies of your dog including the unsightly parts.
4. Rinse thoroughly and wrap with a towel. If you plan on taking your Maltese out after a bath, be sure that he or she is completely dry before leaving the house. Many suggest that longer haired Maltese’s should be a blow dried to help prevent matting. This is an optional procedure.

MANAGING A MALTESE’S NAILS

Taking care of your Maltese’s nails may seem like an intimidating task, but with a little guidance; you’re sure to have great success.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Dog Nail Clippers
• Nail File

STEP BY STEP:

1. After bathing your Maltese, set them in your lap and firmly hold the desired paw in one hand. If your Maltese refuses to stay still, you may want to turn him or her on their side and lay some of your body weight on them to steady the paw.
2. Determine where to clip by looking for the end to your dog’s quick. This is usually visible as a change of color towards the end of a dog’s nail.
3. Place your clippers at a 90 degree angle on the nail you want to trim.
4. Squeeze firmly and discard nail clipping.
5. Use your nail file to smooth the nail surface and remove any snags.

Good nutrition for your Maltese dog is important for overall health and beauty. Essential nutrients are required by your little pooch to maintain a healthy coat and teeth; stay active; and live longer.

FEEDING A MALTESE PUPPY

When purchasing your new puppy, it is often from a reputable supplier. Full bred dogs generally come with a detailed lineage, documentation, and instructions. It is likely that your Maltese is already weaned from mother’s milk, and your breeder has introduced solid foods.

Most breeders will specify which foods and how often the puppy has been fed. In this case, it is wise to continue the dietary plan until your Maltese reaches the age of three months. At this time, some alteration can be made to ensure your growing puppy’s further development.

If the breeder has given no instruction, or you have acquired the puppy through other means; foods that are appropriate for young Maltese’s should include the following ingredients:

• Meat proteins to maintain your puppy’s vitality and vigor.
• Fatty acids to promote healthy skin and liver function.
• Vitamins and Minerals for excellent bone growth and healthy body function.

FEEDING YOUR MALTESE DOG

As your Maltese grows, so do his or her needs. Nutritional values change after 3 months, so it is important to understand how much and what foods are required by your dog to maintain a healthy lifestyle.

• Dry dog foods are the most convenient and affordable way to guarantee your Maltese is receiving its daily intake of nutrients. Packed with all the essential elements your dog needs, these foods are scientifically proven for taste and nutritional value.
• Canned dog foods specifically designed for small, indoor dogs are available at most retail stores and come in a wide variety of flavors. These are slightly higher in cost and less convenient than dry foods, but tend to be more appetizing for many dogs.
• Frozen or fresh dog foods are less commonly used. These foods are made of high quality meat and are packaged into rolls similar to that of hamburger packaging. While the most natural and nutritional forms of dog food, these foods are higher priced and must usually be purchased online.

Regardless of form, only foods specifically designed for small, indoor canines should be served to your Maltese. Most manufacturers clearly note on all packaging which dogs will benefit from their product and include a list of key ingredients found within each blend.

An important note: When introducing new foods to your Maltese, be sure to watch for any signs of food allergies. While not completely common, food allergies can present themselves at any time and if unaddressed; can cause serious harm or death to your pet. Implications of an allergy may be displayed through vomiting, hair loss, or diarrhea.

CAUSES OF SEIZURES

Another common misconception of seizures is that they are always brought on by the condition of Epilepsy. While this is the most frequent cause, is only associated with multiple onsets of seizure episodes. There are situations in which a dog may exhibit seizures occasionally or even just one time. In these cases, cause for a seizure may be from one of the following:

HEAD INJURY: It is not unusual for a dog to suffer from seizures after head trauma. These seizures may be only once, or become recurring.

VIRAL INFECTION: Many times, a dog who has distemper or meningitis may suffer from seizures as a result of swelling and inflammation within the nervous system and in the brain. High fevers have also been known to cause seizures.

CONGENITAL DEFECT OR BRAIN ABNORMALITIES: Defective conditions such as Hydrocephalus and brain tumors can cause seizure.

POISONING: Foods and chemicals that can be toxic in dogs such as chocolate and onions, certain plants, and household chemicals can induce seizures and possibly death.

If your dog experiences seizures, a trip to the veterinarian’s office will help to determine the cause. Your vet will run a series of tests that generally include a CT scan, blood screen, MRI, and possible spinal tap to establish the root origins for the seizure.

SIGNS OF SEIZURE

While there are varying types and degrees of seizure, all seizures result in the loss of consciousness. Below are some warning signs and symptoms that a dog might display before and during an episode of seizures.

The Aura Phase: Often a precursor to seizure onset, dogs may display symptoms such as:

• Hiding
• Restlessness
• Whining
• Pacing

The Ictus Phase: During this phase, seizure is taking place and behaviors may include:

• A heightened state of excitement
• Vomiting
• Unconsciousness
• Spastic muscle movements
• Unresponsive dilated pupils
• Pooping or peeing
• Paddling of legs
• Smacking of lips

Post-Ictus Phase: This period constitutes the recuperation phase of a seizure and can last for some time. Post seizure mannerisms may include:

• Appearance of confusion
• Temporary blindness
• Extreme lethargy
• May become exceptionally hungry

When witness to your dogs seizure, it is a natural and loving response to want to help him or her. In the case of seizures, however; it is best to let the seizures natural course take effect. You may aid your dog by keeping your composure, moving any hazards out of the way, and through monitoring the situation. It is important to note that unlike human seizures, it is not wise to attempt to place anything inside of your dog’s mouth during a seizure as this may result in injury to you.

If this is your dog’s first seizure, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible so that he or she may assist you in determining the best course of action in preventing and treating any further episodes.

Esophageal Problems

Throat difficulties in a dog are not uncommon and stem from numerous conditions:

• BLOCKAGES: Since canines will eat almost anything, it is reasonable to assume that some objects may present a choking hazard. In this case, a dog’s body will react in a manner that attempts to dislodge the foreign article; producing vomit.
• VASCULAR RING ANOMALIES: This is a frequent and persistent circumstance for dogs in which the blood vessels of the esophagus constrict and cause blockage.
• MEGAESOPHAGUS: This condition occurs when poor muscle tone in the animals throat don’t constrict as much as they should. In turn, food that should be moved to the stomach finds its way back up the esophagus.
• HAITAL HERNIAS: Tears or ruptures in a dog’s diaphragm cause a portion of its stomach to push into the thorax. This is a commonly known cause for acid reflux in humans as well.
• FOOD ALLERGIES: Like humans, dogs may develop food allergies that can cause swelling of the esophagus and vomiting.

Exterior Stimuli

Much of a dogs vomiting can be triggered by outside sources. Frequent causes may include:

• Ingesting substances that may contain harmful chemicals
• Consuming household food scraps
• Situations that induce fear or tension for the dog
• Common illnesses caused from viral infections

Many of these conditions may be treated by a veterinarian or by home remedy, but it is imperative that a dog owner make an informed decision when attempting to treat from home. Some signs that a dog may be suffering from more sinister conditions are listed below.

• Check your dog’s gums. Pale gums may be a sign of poisoning or a lack of oxygen.
• Is there blood in the vomit? If so, he or she may be enduring stomach or esophageal ulcers.
• Make sure your dog is getting enough water. Dehydration can lead to death if left untreated.
• Determine how long and how much your dog has been vomiting. Projectile vomiting is not normal and your dog should show signs of improvement within 24 hours of being sick.

If no pressing concerns are apparent, then a pet owner may begin to take the necessary steps to remedy their dog at home. Here are a few suggestions that will help to eliminate or reduce the number of vomiting incidences your dog may have.

• With a vet’s approval, common over the counter medicines such as Pepto Bismol can help.
• Maple syrup can act as a good reducer for vomit.
• Limit your dog’s food portions.
• Give your dog soups, electrolyte enhanced liquids or broth to regulate dehydration.

Remember, if your dog’s condition does not improve or worsens, you should seek the attention of a veterinarian.

Just like happens when we are too self-indulgent, giving our dog too many treats can be harmful to their health.

But besides the treats, we commit another mistake. Most of us cannot deny that we do not read the food-labels, which is something important, because those labels indicate the amount of food our dog needs.

It is true that when we neuter our pets the physical activity is diminished, that’s why it’s important that if we continue giving the same amount of food we gave before neutering, our dog will gain weight because of the lack of exercise.

How to tell if your dog is a bit heavy? Easy. When looking our dog’s back, we should be able to notice a waist below the ribs, sort of hour-glass shaped. If the opposite happens and all we see is a squared back and not a hint of a waist whatsoever, the diagnosis is one: overweight.

When choosing the right food, the size and age of our dog must be considered. Usually, 100 gr. of dry food or 315-390 Kcal every day should satisfy our dog’s needs.

The Food:

• Meat, can be chicken, bovine, lamb or others (although is not highly recommended). This can be raw or cooked, although pork meat should always be cooked.
• Liver, guts, entrails. It’s a great food, especially for puppies and growing dogs. It should always be cooked.
• Fish is good for growing dogs; it should also be prepared before giving it to our pet.
• Eggs are given to puppies, breeding dogs, and during breastfeeding.
• Milk, just when puppies.
• Is recommendable that all animal by-products to be previously cooked or boiled. The same goes for rice and pastas.
• Veggies and fruits. If you haven’t tried it before, you’ll be surprised to see how much dogs love it. Try with apples, pears, celery, avocado, watermelon (in summer, very refreshing), etc.
• There is a wide variety of prepared food nowadays. Most of them have all the needed, making of it a more convenient and easier way to feed our pet.
• DO NOT forget: Fresh Water. Water is the most important thing for living beings. There should be fresh water at all times. Remember to change the water a few times during the day, to maintain the freshness.

Well, for all dog-owners, there are some techniques and ways to keep our dog alone, minimizing the possibilities of barking and destroying.

• Create an indoor den. Leaving your dog outside all day long is a bad idea. There are a few factors to consider: sudden bad weather, annoying neighbors and bad behavior because of too much freedom. Try using a crate if you or a surrogate come in during the day to let your dog out for a break. If no one is coming, another option is to make a toilet area in the farthest part of the room. If you are willing to do the cleaning, you can use newspapers; if you have the money, you can buy a dog litter tray.
• Create a haven. Most of you know that a bored dog is a destructive dog that can harm himself by chewing and/or swallowing all the wrong things. To prevent this, leave a blanket, toy and a nice comfy bed in the place your dog will be during the day.
• Create mental stimulation. There are treats available for you to give your dog, which will have him entertained during most of the day. Try leaving a Kong toy or a Buster Cube filled with some treat (like peanut butter, meat, or dry food). Your pet will spend most of the day trying to get the treats.
• Create pleasant sounds. Something that has always worked for me is leaving my dogs with the radio or the TV on. Classical music works like a charm, also the sound of human voices. Some people tape their own voices and leave that playing all day long. Remember it has to be something soothing and calmed, not rock or heavy metal music.
• Create sustenance. Always a bowl with food and one or two with water should be left (just the necessary amount of food of course).
• Create unemotional leaving and return. Try not to make of your leaving and your arriving home a big show. It’ll only get him anxious. Before you leave, spend some tie with your dog. Playing with him till he is tired and taking him to the potty work really well.
• There are some other alternatives, but try all these before thinking of giving your mood stabilizers. There is a Prozac for dogs. It’s not addictive, but it’s a last resort that should only be used under veterinarian control.

Because this is a small-sized dog, the teeth will be also much smaller. With this comes the tartar, if the tartar layer thickens, it could be possible the inflammation of the gums and the instability of the tooth as a consequence. To keep and maintain the dog’s denture clean, a toothbrush should be used. In more extreme cases when the tartar layer is too thick, seeking the advice of your veterinarian would be the best thing to do.

Another very important thing you can’t forget is the ears. These too will require of special care. The problem here will be the hairs and the accumulation of wax it comes with it, in the surface of the auditive pavilion. This can make annoying and unhygienic knots. It’ll only take the gentle removal of the knots to avoid further infections.

The nails and the hair between the fingers should be taking care of periodically to avoid difficulties when your dog walks. It will also help to maintain the paws cleaner.

A daily sprucing up of the hair is essential, especially when your Maltese is a long-haired one. With a soft hairbrush or a comb, we can maintain the silky and lustrous hair of our dog.

During the 4th week, the puppy can be fed progressively with solid food. This should be based on a special feeding for the growth of the dog (a formula made essentially for puppies).

The arriving of a new member to the family will bring great joy to the family and mainly to the kids. A puppy brings its freshness, sympathy, and yearning for love from the entire family. When the puppy arrives to its new home, it will be scared and introverted. You must not forget it’s not been long since the puppy was taken away from its mother and brothers, so it’s very important to let the new member get used to the new environment and let it get to know you. You must pay the attention they need and crave. That way the puppy will know it’s loved and protected by everyone in the house.

In the beginning, is not convenient to leave the puppy alone for long periods of time. These first few weeks will forge the character your maltese dog will have in the future, so it’s necessary lots of patience and love.